TAMBULI NG BAYAN
Fernando "Ronnie" Estrada
KOMENTARYO
12/26/24, 1:30 AM
Holiday Tables Without Tradition: The Impact of FDA Regulations on Filipino Cuisine
For many Filipino families, the holiday season is not just about gatherings and gift-giving—it’s about the meals that bring everyone together. Dishes like lechon with its savory sarsa, paksiw na lechon, and kare-kare with its rich peanut sauce and a side of bagoong are staples of the Filipino holiday table. Yet this year, in homes across California, many of these dishes may not make an appearance.
The reason? A shortage of key Filipino ingredients in Asian supermarkets, particularly in San Jose and Milpitas. Store shelves that were once stocked with essentials like Mang Tomas All-Purpose Sauce, Jufran Banana Sauce, and bagoong alamang now sit empty. Conversations with store managers reveal that orders have been placed, but deliveries haven’t come. Further research uncovers the root of the problem: the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA).
FDA Regulations and the Filipino Pantry
The FDA has flagged several Philippine food products for containing "harmful food additives," such as BHA and potassium iodate, which exceed allowable levels. While these products are not outright banned, they face stricter scrutiny at U.S. ports, often resulting in delays or refusals at the border. Among the flagged items are:
Jufran Banana Sauce
UFC Sweet Filipino-Style Spaghetti Sauce
Mang Tomas All-Purpose Sauce
Bagoong (fermented anchovy sauce)
Bagoong Alamang (fermented shrimp paste)
For Filipino families, these products are more than just condiments—they are cultural touchstones. Without them, recreating traditional holiday dishes feels incomplete.
The Cultural and Emotional Impact
The absence of these ingredients is more than a minor inconvenience. It’s a disruption of tradition, a barrier to the comfort and joy that comes from sharing familiar flavors with loved ones. For the Filipino diaspora, food is one of the most powerful connections to home, and the inability to prepare traditional dishes feels like a loss of identity during a season that celebrates togetherness.
Filipino immigrants and their families are left scrambling for alternatives. Some may try to make lechon sarsa or bagoong from scratch, but these are complex processes that require time and skill—luxuries not everyone has during the holidays. Others may turn to online sellers, though prices for these imported items have skyrocketed due to their scarcity.
Addressing the Issue
The FDA’s role in ensuring food safety is essential, but it also raises questions about how regulations can disproportionately affect immigrant communities. While the flagged additives may pose health concerns, the lack of transparent communication about the status of these products leaves consumers in the dark. Many are unaware of why their favorite brands are unavailable and have no idea when or if they will return to shelves.
For now, the Filipino-American community must adapt. Some families are exploring new recipes, substituting other sauces or creating fusion dishes that blend Filipino flavors with locally available ingredients. Others are turning the shortage into an opportunity to educate younger generations about the importance of Filipino food and the resilience of their culture.
Looking Ahead
This holiday season highlights a broader challenge: the need for cultural sensitivity in food regulations and supply chains. The FDA and importers must work together to find solutions that balance safety with accessibility, ensuring that beloved ethnic foods can remain part of the American culinary landscape.
In the meantime, the Filipino community continues to find ways to celebrate. Even without lechon sarsa or bagoong alamang, the spirit of the holidays—rooted in love, laughter, and shared meals—remains strong. After all, while food brings people to the table, it’s the people who make the meal truly memorable.(Tambuli Ng Bayan-Ronnie Estrada)